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August 24, 2019
The Best
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Abroad
No. 6
Weekend
Edition
Saturdays

at 6:00 AM
In This Week’s Issue
The View from Here

Alessandra Stanley speaks up for artistic freedom, and for the right not to go see Woody Allen’s A Rainy Day in New York …

Play With It Again, Sam

Alexandra Marshall, our reporter in Paris, has an exclusive look at the Woody Allen movie that Amazon dumped and no one wants Americans to see …

Oculosis

Our gadget columnist, Emma Freud, learns that the problem with virtual reality doesn’t lie in the virtual world. It’s what happens when you come back …

Issue No. 6
T.G.I.S.

It Was an Awkward Week for …

… British royalty. There were revelations that Prince Harry, fresh from his inspiring lecture on climate change, flew on private jets with his wife, Meghan Markle, and son, Archie. (The couple were accused of hypocrisy; Elton John defended them; Buckingham Palace declined comment.) Video footage emerged of Prince Andrew at Jeffrey Epstein’s town house. (Buckingham Palace declined comment, then issued a statement saying that Andrew was “appalled” by Epstein’s behavior.)…

Read On
But First …
Issue No. 6

The View from Here

By Alessandra Stanley
Read On
Briefly
France-Spain “Sacrebleu! They Left Dirty Towels” Pheasant Island might be a summer share with the world’s most regal lineage… Italy Romulus and Remus Redux? This summer, wolves have been seen on the periphery of Rome. For now, they have not entered the city… Germany The Very Good German The Bavarian town of Kollnburg has been without a doctor since the 1990s, so its mayor… France French Dressing with Those Greens? The mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo (above), plans to create the world’s biggest… Taiwan Who Gets the Presidential Suite? Taiwan is so hungry for tourism that it is offering 20 tourists a free night’s stay… France-Spain “Sacrebleu! They Left Dirty Towels” Pheasant Island might be a summer share with the world’s most regal lineage… Italy Romulus and Remus Redux? This summer, wolves have been seen on the periphery of Rome. For now, they have not entered the city… Germany The Very Good German The Bavarian town of Kollnburg has been without a doctor since the 1990s, so its mayor… France French Dressing with Those Greens? The mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo (above), plans to create the world’s biggest… Taiwan Who Gets the Presidential Suite? Taiwan is so hungry for tourism that it is offering 20 tourists a free night’s stay…
Crimes and Misdemeanors

Play With It Again, Sam We went to Paris for an exclusive look at the Woody Allen movie that Amazon dumped and no one wants Americans to see

By Alexandra Marshall
Read On
Small Talk
“Can I say something obnoxious and inflammatory under the pretense of playing devil’s advocate for a moment?”
“Can I say something obnoxious and inflammatory under the pretense of playing devil’s advocate for a moment?”
Tech Lab

Oculosis Our gadget columnist tests the unreal allure of virtual reality

By Emma Freud
Read On
Get me rewrite

The Story of L A noted French author reimagines Nabokov’s novel from Lolita’s point of view

By Adam Sage
Read On
Where are they now?

The Nature Hater

Former Interior secretary Ryan Zinke is dancing with the energy lobbyists
By Shawn McCreesh
Read On
Small Talk
“I post one thing about how de-clawing isn’t that bad, and now the whole world hates me.”
“I post one thing about how de-clawing isn’t that bad, and now the whole world hates me.”
Scandal

Succession, starring Ghislaine Maxwell

Her family makes the Roys of HBO look like the Brady Bunch
By Ash Carter
Read On
Small Talk
Franco-Philes

Seeing Red A new far-right party is using bullfighting to stir the blood of voters

By Cody Delistraty
Read On
Small Talk
“I don’t care about water—just get me the hell away from Burning Man.”
“I don’t care about water—just get me the hell away from Burning Man.”
Modern Times

Millennials Aren’t Having a Lot of Sex. I Know Why

By Jessica Morgan
Read On
West End Story

A Monster Among Angels

The Night of the Iguana, now in an eloquent production in London, is Tennessee Williams’s last great work
By John Lahr
Illustration by Paul Davis
Read On
Modern Times

Stairway to Hell This is what happens when rock stars don’t die young

By Stuart Heritage
Read On
The Planet

How Green Is Your Valley? Tatiana Schlossberg measures the carbon footprint of everyday life

By Chloe Malle
Read On

Open House

You might recognize Chatsworth House, the Derbyshire home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, as Mr. Darcy’s country estate in the 2005 version of Pride and Prejudice, starring Keira Knightley as Elizabeth Bennet. In conjunction with Sotheby’s 275-year anniversary and the opening of its expanded New York galleries, “Treasures from Chatsworth” features more than 40 masterworks from the fabled house. READ ON

The Duke and Duchess of Devonshire on the grounds of Chatsworth in 2015.

Read On
Discover
Small Talk

History on His Mind

Printmaker? Animator? Set designer? In the grand style of the avant-garde, the artist William Kentridge has always moved across materials and media. READ ON

Triumphs and Laments, 2013, is one of several Kentridge works on display at the Zeitz Museum through March 2020.

Read On
Discover
Profile

Queen of Muses

The always extraordinary Patricia Clarkson on Sharp Objects, portraying difficult characters, and the correct way to make jambalaya
By Sam Kashner
Portrait by David Downton
Read On

Dressing the Part

By Joel Lobenthal

It was called, with some hope, “the war to end all wars.” Not a chance. But as often happens when the world is otherwise engaged and men are at the front, W.W. I allowed women into public life and the workforce—which meant a radical change in the way they dressed. Gone the stilted corseting of the Edwardians. Functional clothes were crucial for women driving ambulances, nursing on the front lines, running the family business. READ ON

The American aviator Marjorie Stinson, the only woman to be granted a pilot license by the Army & Navy Committee of Aeronautics, 1918. “French Fashion, Women, and the First World War” opens at the Bard Graduate Center Gallery, in New York, on September 5.

Read On
Discover
Close-up

Laura Carlin

Ten years ago, Laura Carlin was an award-winning illustrator, creating imaginary worlds of melancholic beauty for children’s books. Then boredom set in. “There’s an illusion that if you’re doing something creative, you’re inspired all the time,” says Carlin. So she tried her hand at ceramics, hand-painting tiles with exotic animals and conjuring up funny little figures that one could imagine living under mushrooms.

In the wake of the 2008 recession, Carlin began selling her wares as a means of earning extra income. Today, she is as in-demand for her ceramics as for her illustrations. With gallery representation in her native London, as well as in Hong Kong, she works on both picture books (King of the Sky and The Promise, for example) and private commissions. READ ON

Laura Carlin at work. Read On
Style
Put On Fallon Earrings Don’t even think about pairing these with a pastel twinset, demure pencil skirt, and sensible heels… Wear Ulla Johnson’s Lottie Dress If you were to stumble into Air Mail headquarters on any particular workday—and we truly hope you do… Boot Up The Sanders Chukka When it comes to style, guys have been trying to walk in Steve McQueen’s shoes for more than 50 years… Wear Gretchen Scott Pants The term “elastic waist” tends to give us pause. We happily make an exception, however, for these… Carry Burberry Wallet Newly-minted creative director Riccardo Tisci has enlisted this monogram print—inspired by one found in the brand’s archive—… Put On Fallon Earrings Don’t even think about pairing these with a pastel twinset, demure pencil skirt, and sensible heels… Wear Ulla Johnson’s Lottie Dress If you were to stumble into Air Mail headquarters on any particular workday—and we truly hope you do… Boot Up The Sanders Chukka When it comes to style, guys have been trying to walk in Steve McQueen’s shoes for more than 50 years… Wear Gretchen Scott Pants The term “elastic waist” tends to give us pause. We happily make an exception, however, for these… Carry Burberry Wallet Newly-minted creative director Riccardo Tisci has enlisted this monogram print—inspired by one found in the brand’s archive—…

Class Act

Boarding schools have always made for great drama—stories set in confined spaces have inherent tension. This is something British writer Enid Blyton saw immediately, and the reason why, beginning in 1946, she wrote Malory Towers, a series of six books based on a group of inky-fingered schoolgirls in Cornwall, England. READ ON

The cast of Malory Towers performs at the Passenger Shed, in Bristol. Their U.K.-wide tour finishes at the Oxford Playhouse on October 5.

Read On
Discover
Beach bums

No Skin in the Game Topless tanning, one of Europe’s most cherished summer traditions, has gone missing. What gives?

By Alexandra Marshall
Read On
Books
Mark Bowden On

They Will Have to Die Now: Mosul and the Fall of the Caliphate

by James Verini
Read On
Liesl Schillinger On

Passionate Spirit: The Life of Alma Mahler

by Cate Haste
Read On
Jonathan Calvert On

Legacy: Gangsters, Corruption and the London Olympics

by Michael Gillard
Read On
Books

Tangier Style A new book, out in September, features photographs of the Moroccan coastal city’s picturesque homes and gardens

Portfolio by Guido Taroni
7
Dar Ouezzane, home of antiques dealer Gordon Watson.
Dar Cherif Ben Sadek, home of fashion designer Laura Welfling and artist “Gipi” de Richemont Salvy.
El Foolk, home of the late antiques dealer Christopher Gibbs and his partner, Peter Hinwood.
Dar Sanaa, home of Blanca Hamri.
Avenue Pasteur, home of collector Jonathan Dawson.
Dar Ling, home of artist Francisco de Corcuera y Gandarillas.
Dar Baba, home of shoe designer Bruno Frisoni and furniture designer Hervé Van der Straeten.
Shelf Life

Olivia Laing On the books that cure her writer’s block

Read On
Best
Drive 1958 BMW Isetta 300 The Isetta is a sublime example of a quirky breed of micro-cars that briefly bloomed in postwar Europe… Download The Athletic For sports fans in the U.S., fall might be the best time of the year—baseball’s pennant races are full throttle, football is back, and N.B.A. chatter… Eat RyuGin Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin restaurant finds Tokyo to be among the world’s great gastronomic capitals… Watch The Great Hack The Great Hack is a horror story for our times. After watching it, you’ll not only understand why it’s true that “data is the new oil”;… Make a Splash A Discreet Sink If a home renovation is on the horizon, can we suggest adding the Victoria Petite Cloakroom Basin to your punch list?… Listen Slate Money Slate Money feels like a true-crime podcast even though it’s really about the Actual Economy. Every Saturday, Felix Salmon, a Slate writer… Drive 1958 BMW Isetta 300 The Isetta is a sublime example of a quirky breed of micro-cars that briefly bloomed in postwar Europe… Download The Athletic For sports fans in the U.S., fall might be the best time of the year—baseball’s pennant races are full throttle, football is back, and N.B.A. chatter… Eat RyuGin Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin restaurant finds Tokyo to be among the world’s great gastronomic capitals… Watch The Great Hack The Great Hack is a horror story for our times. After watching it, you’ll not only understand why it’s true that “data is the new oil”;… Make a Splash A Discreet Sink If a home renovation is on the horizon, can we suggest adding the Victoria Petite Cloakroom Basin to your punch list?… Listen Slate Money Slate Money feels like a true-crime podcast even though it’s really about the Actual Economy. Every Saturday, Felix Salmon, a Slate writer…
Travel

The Chef’s Guide to Puglia The very best places to eat, drink, and skinny-dip in this magical stretch of Italy

By Ryan Hardy
5
Grotta della Poesia, which translates to “the cave of poetry,” in Roca Vecchia.
Clockwise from top left: a roadside marker in Roca Vecchia that translates to “The holy virgin to the shepherd appeared in the caves of the Basilian monks”; Hardy with his son, Roman, and daughter, Colette; percoche for sale out of a local’s trunk in Ostuni; fresh fish at a restaurant in Gallipoli.
Coffee from Pasticceria da Ciccio, in Ostuni.
Clockwise from top left: fried seafood from Il Principe del Mare, in Savelletri; Hardy’s idea of dinner, prepared at the masseria in Mesagne, where he stayed with his family; ricci at Il Principe del Mare; the restaurant’s jovial fishmonger, who opens 1,000 ricci each day—the maximum amount allowed by law.
Zuppa di pesce from Lo Scalo.
Travel

Ask Richard

By Richard David Story

Dear Richard,

I don’t put that much value on bucket lists, but there’s definitely a real sense of competitive travel out there. Everyone wants to have been there first, ventured where no one else has gone, et cetera. You must have seen the entire world, no? What is the most exotic, the most remote, the most unfamiliar place you’ve encountered?…

Read On
Small Talk
“Here on the Cape, Mitchell favors ethnic garb.”
“Here on the Cape, Mitchell favors ethnic garb.”
Air Play
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Jim McMullan’s Sketchbook
Is Edited By

Graydon Carter and Alessandra Stanley

Deputy Editors

Chris Garrett Michael Hainey George Kalogerakis Nathan King

Design Director

Angela Panichi

Chief Technology Officer

John Tornow

Books Editor

Jim Kelly

Arts Intel Report Editor

Laura Jacobs

Style Editor

Ashley Baker

Articles Editor

Ash Carter

Senior Editor

Julia Vitale

Photo Editor

Ann Schneider

Cartoon Editor

Bob Mankoff

Communications Director

Beth Kseniak

Assistant Editors

Elena Clavarino Clementine Ford Alex Oliveira

International Editor

Isabelle Harvie-Watt

London Editor

Bridget Arsenault

Copy Editor

Adam Nadler

Research & Legal Editor

Matt Kapp

Production Editor

H. Scott Jolley

Associate Editor

Elinor Schneider

Chief Operating Officer

Bill Keenan

Chief Marketing Officer

Emily Davis

Brand Partnerships

Anjali Lewis

Financial & Business Operations

Marc Leyer

Integrated Marketing Manager

Madeline Spates

Intern

Eshaan Jain

Issue No. 6
August 24, 2019
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Issue No. 6
August 24, 2019
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