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Issue No. 221

The View from Here Psych report: Does Xi Jinping have a Mao complex?

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The Eyes of a Killer:
Part VI
After a few false leads, a grieving father turned amateur sleuth discovers the prosecution’s hidden ace

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There Goes the Neigh-borhood! In Florida, old-guard horse-lovers and new-money developers are duking it out for the soul of Wellington

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Keeping It in La Famille For more than 200 years, members of a religious cult characterized by intermarriage have been living in central Paris in near-total secrecy

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Air Supply

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Guest Edit

My Favorite Things The designer behind Métier’s leather heirlooms shares her own objects of permanence, from discreet yet distinctive wardrobe essentials to the suitcase staples that bring ease to every journey

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Family (Mis)Fortunes A Trump and a Kushner square off for the title of “World’s Worst Grandpa”

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Status Symbols Earbuds that sound money! Send the Canada geese back to Green Acres! The strongest screen protector around! And more …

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Small Talk
“Obviously our vow of poverty excludes real estate.”

Lunch with Bette Midler On this week’s episode of Table for Two, Bette Midler reveals to host Bruce Bozzi that, yes, even she gets nervous …

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The Attention-Whore Index The Republicans spit out Kevin McCarthy, Gwyneth Paltrow chokes on her politics, and one of Britain’s richest men doesn’t recognize Jeffrey Epstein in the mirror. Please, pick your favorite loser already!

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Terminal Hilarity How three guys from the Milwaukee suburbs re-invented American comedy

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Julian Schnabel’s Cutting Edge Despite commercial success and a body of work that now spans more than five decades, the artist is just as irritable and unimpressed as ever

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Best
Read Top Dogs: A British Love Affair What do you get when you combine Queen Camilla and “a British love affair”? A story about dogs… Wear Jacquemus The party gods have informed us that our festive fashion is handled until further notice. The good people at Jacquemus have just… Wear Uniqlo Sometimes it’s O.K. to be boring! It really is! Which is why today we are talking about socks. Specifically basic black ones you can wear under… Listen Tim: Let It Bleed Edition Deep into the reissue era, one approaches yet another elaborately packaged boxed set with a little… Sparkle Lucy Delius “Old meets new” is the simplest way to describe the emerging British jewelry brand Lucy Delius. After spending more than 15 years building… Read Fear Is Just a Word Mexican cartels that kidnap, torture, and behead civilians are not normally anything you’d want to read about. Azam Ahmed, a New York Times Read Top Dogs: A British Love Affair What do you get when you combine Queen Camilla and “a British love affair”? A story about dogs… Wear Jacquemus The party gods have informed us that our festive fashion is handled until further notice. The good people at Jacquemus have just… Wear Uniqlo Sometimes it’s O.K. to be boring! It really is! Which is why today we are talking about socks. Specifically basic black ones you can wear under… Listen Tim: Let It Bleed Edition Deep into the reissue era, one approaches yet another elaborately packaged boxed set with a little… Sparkle Lucy Delius “Old meets new” is the simplest way to describe the emerging British jewelry brand Lucy Delius. After spending more than 15 years building… Read Fear Is Just a Word Mexican cartels that kidnap, torture, and behead civilians are not normally anything you’d want to read about. Azam Ahmed, a New York Times

There’s No Place Like Rome The Manhattan opening of Roscioli, a revered fourth-generation Roman bakery and salumeria, asks: Can an iconic Italian restaurant ever really be replicated in the U.S.?

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Livin’ la Vida Circoloca Unlike history’s favorite nightclub parties, whose popularity was fleeting, Circoloco—nearly 25 years into its tenure in Ibiza—is cooler than ever

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After Hours

A Night Celebrating Adam Nagourney On Tuesday, Gay Talese, Maureen Dowd, Maggie Haberman, and other journalistic swells gathered at a book party hosted by AIR MAIL Co-Editors Graydon Carter and Alessandra Stanley in celebration of the writer’s new book, a history of The New York Times

Small Talk

Will a Victim’s Father Take Down the Idaho Killer? On this week’s podcast, Howard Blum reveals how the father of one of the victims is pursuing his own investigation—and uncovering new facts

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Open Book

Twentieth-Century Woman A new book collects 100 images taken by Lee Miller, the intrepid photographer, war correspondent, and Surrealist muse, played by Kate Winslet in an upcoming film


The Devil’s in the Details From Paolo Sorrentino’s The Hand of God to the novels of Elena Ferrante—where has this insatiable appetite for all things Naples come from?

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Book Reviews

Going Infinite: The Rise and Fall of a New Tycoon

by Michael Lewis
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The Last Colony: A Tale of Exile, Justice, and Courage

by Philippe Sands
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Small Talk
“Spare me the early-bird lecture.”

Till Kingdom Come The Holy Roman Empire failed so you don’t have to. In a new book, a scion of the Habsburg family interprets lessons from one of Europe’s most powerful dynasties for the personal realm

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Julia Margaret Cameron’s 1867 photo of her niece Julia Jackson, who was Virginia Woolf’s mother.

Photo Finish

Described by Roland Barthes as one of the great “originators” of photography, Julia Margaret Cameron was a creature like no other. She picked up her first camera in 1863, when she was 48. A gift from her daughter, the camera was delivered with a note that now reads like an award-winning example of British understatement: “It may amuse you, Mother, to try to photograph during your solitude at Freshwater.” In that seaside village, on England’s Isle of Wight, she made almost 1,000 images that to this day look like no one else’s. “Arresting Beauty: Julia Margaret Cameron” opens at the Jeu de Paume on October 10, the first Paris exhibition of the artist since 1985. It will be fascinating to see how this new interest in Cameron expresses itself in the creative Zeitgeist of the fashion capital. READ ON


Tommy Grimshaw As the fall grape harvest begins, the youngest head wine-maker in England discusses the U.K.’s burgeoning wine industry

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Small Talk

Bottoms Up Copenhagen has long been an epicenter of fine dining. But these exciting wine bars make the case for a less fussy experience

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The Elephant in the Room Safaris can make or break couples—we’re thinking here of Out of Africa, Mogambo, and, naturally, Harry and Meghan. At Chobe Game Lodge, in Botswana, you can re-ignite your passion, just like Dick and Liz did

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Molly Baz The chef, food writer, and cookbook author reveals her travel routine

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When I was growing up, my parents had an enormous Fernando Botero poster in the center of our kitchen, where we spent most of our time. As a figurative painter whose work is often rooted in whimsy and satire, I find it hard to imagine that it didn’t have a greater impact on me than I’m even aware. To this day, he is one of my favorite painters, and I often look to his work for a creative spark. I visit his painting Dancing in Colombia (which inspired this oil sketch) whenever I’m at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York City. Each time, I find something new.
Is Edited By

Graydon Carter and Alessandra Stanley

Creative Director

Angela Panichi

Deputy Editors

Ashley Baker Ash Carter Chris Garrett Nathan King Julia Vitale

Chief Technology Officer

John Tornow

Editor at Large

George Pendle

Books Editor

Jim Kelly

Arts Intel Report Editor

Laura Jacobs

Senior Editors

Elena Clavarino Jensen Davis

Photo Director

Ann Schneider

Copy Editor

Adam Nadler

Production Editor

H. Scott Jolley

Associate Editors

Carolina de Armas Lucy Horowitz Clara Molot Paulina Prosnitz Jack Sullivan

Art Director

Paloma Huerre

Photo Editor

Emine Gözde Sevim

Designer

Zoé Gillette

International Editor

Isabelle Harvie-Watt

London Editor

Bridget Arsenault

Communications Director

Harrison Vail

Columnists

Cazzie David Lisa Henricksson Walter Isaacson
Pico Iyer Rachel Johnson John Lahr
Jonathan Margolis Linda Wells James Wolcott

Writers at Large

Lili Anolik Johanna Berkman Joseph Bullmore Vassi Chamberlain William D. Cohan Rich Cohen Michael Hainey Stuart Heritage George Kalogerakis Sam Kashner James Kirchick Alexander Lobrano Alexandra Marshall Daphne Merkin

Contributing Artists

Monica Ahanonu Barry Blitt André Carrilho Paul Davis David Downton Andrea Ferolla Josh Gosfield Cathy Graham Eric Hanson Angelica Hicks Pip Johnson Hilary Knight Danielle Kosann Michael Lindsay-Hogg Ross MacDonald Joe McKendry James McMullan Donald Robertson Charles Dare Scheips Grant Shaffer Ed Sorel Ralph Steadman

Contributing Photographers

Jonathan Becker Justin Bishop Alex Board James Emmerman Marcos Fecchino Daniel Paik Art Streiber Sharon Suh Justin Weiner

Architectural Consultant

Basil Walter

Head of Audience Development

Rachel LeSage

Audience Growth Manager

Merritt Johnson

Cartoon Editor

Bob Mankoff

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Randall Poster

Technology

Brooks Oakley Justin Rubaloff Sade Singleton

Intern

Gasper Tringale-White

OUR CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER ARE

Bill Keenan and Emily Davis

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Financial & Business Operations

Marc Leyer

Chief Strategy Adviser

Adam Mendelsohn


Chief Merchant

Jennifer Noyes

Shop Editor

Zoe Ruffner

E-Commerce Manager

Isaac Metlitsky

E-commerce Associate

Lilly Schoenbaum


In Memoriam

Peter Bogdanovich Duncan Hannah Douglas McGrath Richard David Story André Leon Talley

Issue No. 221
October 7, 2023
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Issue No. 221
October 7, 2023

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