On a recent Tuesday night in New York, a crowd was forming on the corner of King and MacDougal Streets, just below Houston. The restaurant Roscioli, which had been under construction for the past year, was finally taking reservations.
Thick brown paper no longer covered the windows, and just like at the original Roscioli, off Rome’s Campo de’ Fiori square, the walls at Roscioli New York were lined with jars, tins, boxes, and bottles filled with everything from dried pasta to preserved artichokes. Unlike in Rome, this Roscioli doesn’t have separate spaces for a salumeria, bakery, and wine bar. Instead, all three concepts are rolled into one building.