Ved Stranden 10 only serves wine from Austria, but don’t worry—there are more than enough good bottles to go around.

Bottoms Up

Copenhagen has long been an epicenter of fine dining. But these exciting wine bars make the case for a less fussy experience

By Kyle Beechey

Denmark is not France or Italy, or even Spain. But it’s still an excellent, if under-the-radar, travel destination for oenophiles.

Today, aficionados around the world are debating the merits of so-called natural wine (a term with no official designation or commonly agreed-upon meaning), but the conversation began in 2003 with the opening of Noma. For its chef, René Redzepi, an ingredient’s origins and cultivation methods mattered, and the same went for wine. Many of Redzepi’s disciples have hung out their own shingles, opening wine-centric restaurants and bars throughout Copenhagen, which makes this an especially ripe time to visit.