Eye of the Beholder
It’s no longer enough to simply smell good. For the .01 percent, only a completely custom fragrance will do. And if it costs tens of thousands of dollars, so be it! Our sensible beauty columnist sniffs out the truth of this trend
Mayflower Inn & Spa
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Hanro
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The Old Man & the Pool
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Dining at the Clink
One of London’s best restaurants is extremely rough around the edges
Laetitia Rouget
Set
Views for Days
Take in epic scenery, historic passages, and adventures at a slower pace on these 25 spectacular European rail trips
Amor y Amargo
Drink
High Times in José Ignacio
How a pair of restaurants helped turn a sleepy Uruguayan fishing town into a worldwide destination—without sacrificing its charm
Uncorking Greatness at 3,000 Feet
A journey into Mendoza, Argentina’s treasure chest of undiscovered vineyards and the home of its most storied producer, Catena Zapata
Jerry Saltz
The Pulitzer Prize–winning art critic reveals his travel routine
Colenimo
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Semifreddo alla Gianduia
Impress your dinner-party guests this holiday season with Via Carota’s chocolate-hazelnut semifreddo
Portrait Mode
Milan’s best new hotel, Portrait, comes courtesy of the Ferragamo family and brings equal doses of history, tradition, glamour, and edge
Westman Atelier
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Heather Evelyn
Send
Santa Maria Novella
Smell
Darcy Miller
Host
Emilia Wickstead
Serve
La Garçonne
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Prunier’s Triumphant Return
Thanks to an overhaul by chef Yannick Alléno, one of the most storied caviar temples in Paris shines once again
Kaitlin Phillips’s Holiday Gift Guide
Tableware, books, lingerie … the New York publicist solicits advice from the city’s artists, restaurateurs, designers, and writers on the best gifts to give this season
Bill Nighy
The actor answers 26 of life’s most pressing questions
