Seaside in Amalfi, photographed by Slim Aarons in 1984. Today, the crowds have grown exponentially, with temperatures to match.

Riviera Madness

In the late 19th century, the French and Italian coasts became places of refuge, thanks to their moderate climes. With climate change destroying the Mediterranean summer fantasy, will vacationers go elsewhere?

By Elena Clavarino

Two weeks ago, during a quiet summer night in Milan, a tornado began to take hold. In the early morning, trees around the city were ripped from their roots, collapsing over railings and shopwindows. Hail the size of tennis balls rained down onto the historic Duomo, and 60-mile-per-hour winds tore a balcony off of a building.

While Northern Italians drowned in ice in Southern Italy, wildfires melted the tarmac of Sicily’s Catania airport, with temperatures soaring to above 116 degrees. Meanwhile, a standard room at the White Lotus–famous San Domenico, in Taormina, an hour’s drive away, is going for $3,000 a night. In Mykonos, prices hover in the $1,000 range, while a sea-view room at the Quisisana Hotel, in Capri, costs north of $8,000 per night.