In March 2022, just one month after Russia invaded Ukraine, Anna Shvedova spent the day at a post office in Kyiv. With the besieged city in partial lockdown, the lines were long, and being exposed to the elements was risky, especially since bombs were likely to fall at any time.
But despite the chaos of war, Shvedova was determined to continue operations at Bazhane, her emerging fashion brand. Using social media, Shvedova sold individual pieces directly to customers and retrieved the products from bombed-out warehouses, mailing them herself.
Originally from Lubny, in northeast Ukraine, Shvedova started Bazhane in 2019 with the intention of creating a uniquely Ukrainian take on women’s and men’s wear, shoes, and accessories. Today, it is best known for its long structured coats with shoulder pads and cinched waists, as well as its hourglass-cut blazers.
For Shvedova and her team, the enterprise is about more than simply a nice outfit. “We aim to reshape the image of the modern Ukrainian woman,” she says. “Ukrainian women are ambitious, and our clothing reflects this blend of femininity and strength.”
Bazhane’s recent success is remarkable. In the weeks leading up to the full-scale war, sales dropped dramatically as residents fled. The spring collection (which was currently in development) was abandoned. The rest of the entire team at the time departed, leaving only Shvedova—and Bazhane’s existing inventory—in Kyiv.
Creative director Kateryna Markova attributes the brand’s success to Shvedova’s fearlessness. “A month after the invasion, she said, ‘Let’s get to work,’” says Markova. “Anya possessed absolute confidence in our brand and its success, and that is what got it back on track.”
In the first few weeks of the war, they began creating a series of jackets emblazoned with messages such as Freedom to Ukraine and No War, donating the proceeds to the war effort. In the autumn of 2022, after refocusing on tailoring and outerwear, Bazhane released the coat it would come to be known for. “It was an unforgettable period, because we started from scratch and completely renewed ourselves,” says Markova.
By the spring, Shvedova and her team were organizing their first photo shoot in Kyiv. The city was largely empty except for the barricades and anti-tank obstacles, and the shoot was constantly interrupted by attacks and air-raid alerts. Despite the challenges, the photographs have come to hold special significance to Shvedova and her team, representing the importance of Kyiv’s resilience and Ukraine’s strength and independence.
The war proved to be a turning point for Bazhane. When Russian troops withdrew from the Kyiv region and its residents gradually began to return, the brand opened its first store. Today, it also operates boutiques in Odessa and Lviv and plans to open a store in Paris.
Markova’s goal is to put Ukraine on the fashion map. “It’s clear that our identity has evolved following the war, and it’s essential for us to shape our Ukrainian identity in a new way,” she says. “Many people have overcome feelings of inferiority, allowing us to develop a broader understanding of who we are as Ukrainians, and we have started to appreciate our culture and roots with fresh importance.”
Eleanor Harmsworth is a New York–based writer
