Critics from Le Figaro to the restaurant Web site Le Fooding have been waiting to see what chef-owner Pierre Touitou would do with 19 Saint Roch, his third restaurant in Paris.
At just 31 years old, but with 15 years of experience, he’s practically an elder statesman of the Paris food scene. With his previous restaurants—the edgy Vivant, where he served small plates from behind a counter, and Déviant, his deluxe wine bar—Touitou mastered cool. But could the affable, Paris-born chef be seriously sophisticated?
