Those who have followed the Paris restaurant scene at any point since the early 2000s have probably been to, or at least heard of, Le Chateaubriand, in the hip 11th Arrondissement, and its neighboring wine bar, Le Dauphin.

At Petit Grill Basque, seafood takes a starring role.

There, the iconoclastic chef Iñaki Aizpitarte has challenged and delighted diners, critics, and international-awards judges with his singular, stripped-down cuisine. It’s hard to find an article on him that doesn’t nod to his contribution to the bistronomy movement—bistro fare combined with gastronomic techniques—or use the term “rock star” to describe his status and preternatural cool.