I recently had lunch with Saskia de Rothschild, the charismatic and companionable 39-year-old former journalist who is now chairman of Domaines Barons de Rothschild, the family’s global wine group. Guests brought along a bottle or two of Lafite Rothschild, and she brought wines going back to the 19th century.

Lafite Rothschild, a first-growth Bordeaux, is one of only five Bordeaux estates in that classification and has an illustrious, if somewhat uneven, history dating back hundreds of years, acquiring its current name after its purchase by Baron James Rothschild in 1868. Long before that, Thomas Jefferson was a big fan.