Twenty-five years ago, on a muggy summer morning in Ticino, the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland, I heard the best explanation for Capri’s immortal allure. Just after the church bells rang at 11 a.m., Patricia Highsmith knocked the cap off a heavy brown bottle of beer on the edge of a stone table and took a swig. (This gesture signaled the end of the interview she’d granted me for W magazine.)
Then she cocked her head, looked at me, and declared, “I hope you’re not rushing back to Paris this weekend. It’s a miserable place during the summer.” I explained that I was meeting a friend in Capri. She snickered.
