On May 17, 2023, the James Beard Award–nominated chef Will Aghajanian entered Vesper, a dimly lit cocktail bar in Bangkok’s Silom district, and ordered a martini. Then he ordered another one, and slouched forward, crying. He knew what was coming. “Are you O.K.?” the bartender asked.
After more than a dozen martinis, he returned to his hotel and slept through a steady hum of phone alerts under his pillow. He awoke to a text from his new girlfriend, who had planned to meet him in Thailand for vacation: “I read the stories. We need to talk.”