Alongside the elegant Yves Saint Laurent, one often saw the slick, dark-haired Anne-Marie Muñoz—like her boss, always dressed in black. Though Muñoz remained mostly on the sidelines, she ran Saint Laurent’s design studio for 40 years and was one of his closest confidantes.

Muñoz began her career at Christian Dior, where she was hired as an apprentice in 1951, at 19, thanks to the recommendation of her well-connected uncle, the composer Henri Sauguet. Those were high-flying years at the house, its astonishing overnight success due to Dior’s 1947 “New Look” collection, with its rounded shoulders, cinched waists, and full skirts. Muñoz, however, was viewed as a spoiled apprentice who couldn’t sew. She spent her first seasons re-arranging rolls of fabric in the storerooms and discreetly taking sewing lessons.