In the most stylish enclaves of New York City, it’s not easy to turn 50 without becoming a nipped-and-tucked facsimile of one’s younger self. This applies even to restaurants—unless, that is, they are appropriated by new New Yorkers who overly romanticize the past.

Raoul’s, on Prince Street, still appears as it did on opening night in 1975, but fortunately it’s attracted a new crowd while retaining many of its original regulars.