Will Eugénie Béziat become the Coco Chanel of French gastronomy? The young French chef has taken over Espadon, the haute cuisine restaurant of the Hôtel Ritz in Paris, and even though it’s not opening until September 26, it’s all that anyone is talking about.

The kitchens of the Ritz have been an epicenter of gastronomy ever since hotelier César Ritz and chef Auguste Escoffier opened the property, in 1898. But L’Espadon, as the restaurant was then called, closed on March 14, 2020. When, in 2022, the hotel announced that the little-known Béziat had replaced outgoing chef Nicolas Sale, it was front-page news. (Well, at least in France.)