It’s always been a mixed bag, of course. On the one hand: Maria Callas—née Kalogeropoulos—who brought the world so much joy. (Happy centennial to her.) On the other hand: Spiro Agnew—Anagnostopoulos—who didn’t.

There are perhaps three million Americans of Greek descent. Our relatively modest numbers mean that whenever something or someone Greek breaks through to the wider culture—Callas, Agnew, high-end yogurt, Telly Savalas, My Big Fat Greek Wedding, this Sedaris or that Dukakis, moussaka—you get sucked into that story, like it or not. (When it’s Tina Fey, you really don’t mind at all.)