The Maremma region of Tuscany is deified for a reason. Occupying the western coast of Italy, dotted with almost-too-picturesque-to-be-true attractions such as the Renaissance town of Grosseto and the thermal springs of Saturnia, it is a feast for the senses. Quality (but deceptively simple) food (tortelli and acquacotta, a brothy soup made of leftover bread and vegetables), a wealth of natural wonders (mountain peaks, sandy beaches, rolling hills) … it’s the stuff of dreams, or, at a bare minimum, idyllic holidays.

Castello di Vicarello at sunset.

Castello di Vicarello is the center of things; this 12th-century castle is surrounded by organic vineyards and farmland, with countryside views from every corner of the nine-suite hotel. But it’s the hospitable owners, Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti, and their three sons, Neri, Brando, and Corso, who make the Castello feel like the only place to be.