In Paris, the brief communiqué released on May 17 had the effect of a pot boiling over in a busy restaurant kitchen. Addressed to members of the press, especially food writers and restaurant critics, it read tautly, like a carefully crafted cease-fire declaration.

Still, it dropped like a bomb. French chef Alain Ducasse’s three-Michelin-star restaurant at the Dorchester Collection’s Hôtel Plaza Athénée, in Paris, will be closing on June 30 after a 21-year run.