On a searingly hot afternoon in Amman, a 27-year-old shop assistant with glossy black hair and thick eyeliner abandoned her usual caution and launched into a tirade against the Jordanian government and the royal family.

“Do they think we’re stupid?” Arwa asked as customers drifted around the guitar shop where she worked. “That if they say that everything is OK then we just believe them? The situation is very, very bad.”

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