If your gastronomic knowledge of oats stalled with the smiling Quaker in the black broad-brimmed hat, you may be wondering what the fuss over oat milk is all about. But it’s everywhere these days, from the most discerning coffee shops and grocers to the Instagram accounts of influencers.

Defying the coronavirus-induced back-to-basics trend that is sweeping American supermarkets, oat-milk sales in the United States are continuing their spectacular growth in 2020 after surging by 686 percent last year. This galloping transition to plant-based milk alternatives is so powerful that Dean Foods, the largest U.S. dairy producer, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection last year.