It had been a long time since anyone had asked about the outlaws, and Señor Cranky Pants wasn’t eager to show me their room. But, finally, the desk clerk at the crumbling El Globo hotel, in Trelew, Argentina, snatched some keys off a hook and led me to the cramped quarters where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid had, it was said, once stayed when they were in Patagonia, taking a stab at being legit ranchers.

The brass bed was not even queen-size, but the man insisted that in it had slept not just the two men but also their hermosa compañera, Etta Place, circa 1905. As Butch himself no doubt said on more than one occasion, “Whoa.” The clerk said, “Dos hombres, una mujer, and shrugged theatrically.