Just a few weeks ago—which now means back in a different time entirely—I was in Los Angeles for work, and made plans to visit my friend Eric, a fashion photographer. Instead of catching up over dinner and drinks like normal people, he planned a 7:30 a.m. hike at Runyon Canyon. Fine, because I love the guy. Afterward, he suggested breakfast at his house. Great, I said, hoping for an egg. Instead, I got a “bowl,” which held a glob of something that was the color of wet cement. Eric was very pleased with himself. “Superfoods,” he said. “Adaptogenic herbs, sourced from Erewhon.” Eric wanted me to know he was “basically keto” and eating carbs “once a month, tops.” It tasted like garbage.

And now? Eric’s ordering pizza delivery twice a week. “Comfort food,” he tells me over Zoom, while stuffing his third slice of Jon & Vinny’s White Lightning into his mouth. “Nothing like it!”