With sweet symmetry, the next Great British Lockdown coincides with the publication of Scoff: A History of Food and Class in Britain—and, in theory, just when we all have more time to read, cook, eat, and repeat.

Two mild observations about lockdowns, if I may. I worry they are enforced periods during which rich people have poor people deliver them goods and services, and the government shutters this nation of shopkeepers by closing “non-essential” retail—and therefore robs both Peter and Paul to pay Jeff Bezos.