Twenty-two years after her first book, How to Eat, Nigella Lawson has produced what feels like its answer: Cook, Eat, Repeat. This new title explains literally how to eat. Without knowing the author, you might think it was an existential cry of despair from a harried working mother describing the 2,498 meals she has made since lockdown began.

However, knowing Lawson as we do, after 11 bestsellers and 15 television series, we know she never serves up despair, but its antidote. It is her chocolatey voice as hostage negotiator, urging us to put down the knife and pick up the buttered muffins — all we need to do is “cook, eat, repeat” ourselves out of this mess. It is the voice of someone who has felt the void, whether from the death of a loved one or the emptiness of a stomach, and chosen life in the form of brown butter colcannon.

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