Both fairly and unfairly, “German cuisine” has often been considered an oxymoron. Schnitzel, sauerkraut, and various kinds of wurst don’t have to be resistant to innovation; it’s just that, like the centuries-old Bavarian culture that spawned so many of the country’s signature dishes, they often are.

Then there is kooky Berlin, which offers a different sort of fare. The capital of Germany is also one of the global capitals of veganism, losing its No. 1 status to London recently on Happycow, the TripAdvisor of vegetarianism. It’s not just in aspirational islands like Mitte, where burger chains and Vietnamese lounges trumpet their PETA-friendliness to the street. In scruffy Neukölln, Turkish kebab stands also offer vegan options to passersby dressed in collars a deeper shade of blue.