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September 21 2019
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Vegan chef Sophia Hoffmann is reimagining German cuisine, to delicious results.

Both fairly and unfairly, “German cuisine” has often been considered an oxymoron. Schnitzel, sauerkraut, and various kinds of wurst don’t have to be resistant to innovation; it’s just that, like the centuries-old Bavarian culture that spawned so many of the country’s signature dishes, they often are.

Then there is kooky Berlin, which offers a different sort of fare. The capital of Germany is also one of the global capitals of veganism, losing its No. 1 status to London recently on Happycow, the TripAdvisor of vegetarianism. It’s not just in aspirational islands like Mitte, where burger chains and Vietnamese lounges trumpet their PETA-friendliness to the street. In scruffy Neukölln, Turkish kebab stands also offer vegan options to passersby dressed in collars a deeper shade of blue.

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