Skip to Content
Weekend
Edition

Best of the news
from abroad
Every
Saturday

Arriving at
6:00 AM EST

August 3 2019
Back to the issue
Victor Arguinzoniz at the grill, 2014.

I arrived early, with a mission: to find out why Etxebarri is so celebrated, even though it is fundamentally unlike any other world-famous restaurant.

For one thing, chef-owner Victor Arguinzoniz cooks his dishes, even desserts, over charcoal, made on the premises from wood stacked outside in a shed.

Back to the issue