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Arriving at
6:00 AM

August 3 2019
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Victor Arguinzoniz at the grill, 2014.

I arrived early, with a mission: to find out why Etxebarri is so celebrated, even though it is fundamentally unlike any other world-famous restaurant.

For one thing, chef-owner Victor Arguinzoniz cooks his dishes, even desserts, over charcoal, made on the premises from wood stacked outside in a shed.

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