“Shorts should only be worn on the tennis court or on the beach,” decreed Tom Ford in 2011. And yet the debate rages on. With so much uncertainty about how men should show their legs, AIR MAIL has called upon a panel of experts to weigh in on the matter.
Do you wear shorts?
MUESER: If it’s not in a resort or exercise setting, shorts are definitely not my go-to.
HAINEY: Until maybe a year or two ago, I had a very strict no-shorts policy. In fact, I was known for appearing on European beaches wearing jeans. What changed my mind was a picture of Samuel Beckett wearing shorts.
STERNBERG: My normal mode of dress most of the year is summer-camp counselor. I’m just a casual dresser … and my legs are cute enough.
GUY: I wear them purely as casual things, like if I’m running to go get coffee, errands, groceries.
How do you make shorts look sophisticated?
HAINEY: Cargo shorts, guys look like goofballs in them. A nice, mid-range tailored short, that’s what [most guys] need.
GUY: A long-sleeved sweater, like a crewneck sweater, works really well.
NISHIGUCHI: If it’s really hot, I recommend wearing a short-sleeved T-shirt and putting a linen shirt or knit over your shoulder.
GUY: I do think [shorts and] socks can look great with sneakers, but I just can’t get into shorts with socks and loafers.
BETTRIDGE: The biggest mistake you can make is to not consider the sock. You have to think of the sock as almost like your second shoe.
Where is it not appropriate to wear shorts?
HAINEY: A funeral.
GUY: Obviously, don’t wear shorts to funerals and weddings.
BETTRIDGE: Any type of event that’s calendared. Bar Mitzvah, funeral, wedding, engagement party, baby shower—any kind of shower.
STERNBERG: The classic preppy guy in the summer, he can pull shorts off 24-7. Funeral, wedding, whatever it is.
What about the office?
STERNBERG: I’m a fashion designer and a photographer. So for me, I wear them wherever the hell I want, whenever I want, because I can get away with anything.
GUY: It just depends on where you work. If you’re the owner of the company, you can probably get away with wearing whatever you want.
BETTRIDGE: If you throw on a loafer, a cool sock, and a good shirt, it can be a good sweaty-summer look. The worst possible thing you could do is a formal interpretation of shorts. You’re going to look like an idiot.
How short is too short?
STERNBERG: Shorts are probably the one spot where the proportion of your torso to your legs, and the length from your torso to your knee, or your knee to your foot, actually matters.
NISHIGUCHI: Personally, I think it’s better to choose shorts with a deep rise [higher waistband], especially if you have short legs. A deep rise makes the upper body look shorter, which has the effect of making the legs look longer.
MUESER: If you’re six-three and wearing a five-inch inseam, that’s a lot of leg coming out. If you’re a shorter guy, bring that inseam up, you’re lengthening your silhouette.
BETTRIDGE: The whole idea that there’s a “correct” inseam misses the point of shorts altogether. You’re missing out on the entire fun of getting dressed.
What brands are making great shorts?
NISHIGUCHI: A Japanese brand, Tangent, makes military shorts with tailoring techniques, so they have an excellent fit around the waist and a beautiful silhouette.
GUY: I like the ones from Kartik Research and Harago. They are made from Indian fabrics, so they tend to be block prints and have a lot of hand-sewing. If someone wants super-short shorts, Soffe—those are like John Travolta’s in the film Perfect.
MUESER: Buck Mason is my go-to.
BETTRIDGE: I’m a really big fan of the Patagonia Baggies. I would ride or die for those any day.
Jensen Davis is a Senior Editor at AIR MAIL