In Copenhagen, it’s more than common to sit down at a café and see avocado toast on the menu. That wasn’t the case 15 years ago, when René Redzepi’s Noma was taking the city by storm. The idea of mashing avocado onto bread wasn’t new then—the Australian chef Bill Granger had been doing it since the 90s, and home cooks had surely arrived at the pairing on their own. But when Frederik Bille Brahe did it at Atelier September, the glass-fronted space he opened in 2013, it felt unprecedented.
Earlier this month, Bille Brahe welcomed his first guests to Daphne, his newest restaurant and a culmination of everything he’s learned. “Now that I’m older, I’m looking for a new run,” he says. “I’m pulling on all my experiences.”
