If you ever go to Borgo on East 27th Street in New York City, get the salad. I can’t say for sure what will be in it (you know, seasonality and all that), but I do know it will make you stop mid-bite and think to yourself, How come I don’t make salads like this?

I’m not saying you don’t make a nice salad. Maybe even a tasty one—but not like this. Bite down on that first leaf of Little Gem and a jolt of acidity zips through your mouth, sparking your taste buds to life; a sheen of fat adds a round, fruity ballast; leaves crunch instead of wilt; layers of flavor introduce themselves sequentially, not all at once. There’s a sneaky complexity to it all, each bite different from the last.