The Cotswolds are often referred to as “the Hamptons of London.” But this New Yorker (now living in London) respectfully disagrees.
The eastern tip of Long Island wouldn’t be such a sensation without the wide white-sand beaches that rival the global greats. (On a town level, Southampton is not much different from Bronxville.)
The Cotswolds are farmy, good-looking, and full of rich people, but then again, so are Cornwall, Dorset, and Wiltshire. But, for whatever reason, the Cotswolds, which stretch across nearly 800 square miles and run through five counties, get the most hype. David and Victoria Beckham, Anthony and Carole Bamford, Kate Moss, Jeremy Clarkson, Lily Allen—they’re all there. And, now, so are the lookie-loos.
Instagrammers have almost ruined the microscopic village of Bibury. On summer afternoons, rental Kia Picantos line the banks of the River Coln as smooching influencers capture content against a backdrop of thatched cottages and David Austin roses. To New York’s West Villagers who have witnessed a Sex and the City tour, this will feel very familiar.
But if you simply need to see the Cotswolds to believe it, we understand. And now, more than ever, there are lovely places to stay. Soho Farmhouse, which opened in former prime minister David Cameron’s home of Chipping Norton in 2015, was the first high-end game in town. The Pig, a hotel chain that elevates the English-countryside “restaurant with rooms” schtick into a $700-a-night experience, opened a location in sleepy Barnsley last year.
Those hoping to spot a lower-ranking Beckham should check into Estelle Manor, the Cotswolds outpost of the Mayfair club Maison Estelle. But if the prospect of a $4,000 weekend in the country feels wrong, the Cotswolds and its environs are full of charming pub hotels, some better than others.
The Double Red Duke, a 17th-century inn in the village of Clanfield, soars above its competitors. Technically, it’s a two-star property, but that just reveals how the rating system is broken. There are no Drummonds toilets, hyperbaric chambers, or saltwater swimming pools, but bring a romantic partner and a book and you’ll never even notice.
The beds are soft, the design is stylish and cheerful, and the wine list is large and varied. There’s unlimited tea and homemade cookies. The restaurant has an open-fire grill, and its dishes include ingredients from the kitchen garden. All this for just $200 per night, even in high season. And unlike many of the pubs in the region, this one is full of natives.
All over Europe, five-star-hotel managers are moaning about the difficulties of finding good staff. They should start recruiting here, where the cheerful manager preps the room for your golden retriever, and the college kid who serves your triple-cooked fries is nicer to you than your own brother.
The Double Red Duke seems like an anomaly, but it’s not. It’s simply a new project from Sam and Georgie Pearman, who have a home in nearby Gloucestershire. Their small-hotel collection, Country Creatures, also includes the Swan at Ascott-Under-Wychwood and the Chequers in Churchill.
Georgie is an interior designer who handles every inch of the décor, while Sam handles the operations (and is something of a wine collector). Whatever they’re doing is working. They recently expanded with the Mason’s Arms, a pub across the street from the Double Red Duke, and next summer they will reopen the Wild Duck Inn in the village of Ewen.
So are the Cotswolds overhyped? Sure. But unlike certain corners of the East End of Long Island, where a dreary motel room can run $1,500 per night, they’re far from ruined. In fact, some of us would argue that they’re more appealing than ever.
Ashley Baker is a Deputy Editor at AIR MAIL and a co-host of the Morning Meeting podcast
