It was easy to adore the French designer Yves Saint Laurent. Women loved him for his elegant and comfortable designs, chief among them his visionary Le Smoking (1966)—precursor to the power suit. The ferocious Pierre Bergé loved him as a business partner and a life partner, too. And the camera—whether in the hands of Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Cecil Beaton, or others equally renowned—was besotted with him.

Saint Laurent was relentlessly photographed from the start of his career until its end. The beginning goes back to the funeral of his boss and mentor, Christian Dior, who died unexpectedly in 1957, leaving the 21-year-old Saint Laurent, his chosen one, as head designer of Dior. A Life-magazine image by Loomis Dean shows the young designer leaning against a brick wall, eyes downcast, just after the somber procession at the church of Saint-Honoré d’Eylau, in Paris. The picture is in black and white, though one imagines Saint Laurent’s feelings were anything but.