For most of its history, Ponza was a penal colony. Now the island is a favorite vacation spot among the Romans. After an hour-long train ride to Anzio, they surge onto the ferry that shears through the Tyrrhenian Sea, which is bleached of color and flat-ironed by the midday heat. Ponza’s houses, rising behind the curved rim of the 18th-century Bourbon-era port, pile up like scoops of gelato in shades of melon, strawberry, and pistachio. Noisy three-wheelers—mostly the Piaggio Apé—wait to transfer luggage to simple guesthouses such as Villa Laetitia, a six-room bed and breakfast on a promontory, or Hotel Gennarino a Mare, a wonderful restaurant-with-rooms on a sandy beach.
In Ponza, everyone dances to the islanders’ tune, and the international jet set is not given much attention. The lack of five-star resorts and accessible beaches deter many potential visitors. As a result, Ponza remains gloriously uncontaminated by mass foreign tourism. “Come back at the end of September, when the swallows are en route to Africa,” says Enzo, the proprietor of the Da Enzo trattoria. “Even the Romans have gone home. That’s when it’s magical.” There are just two four-star hotels on Ponza. Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla is an appealing option, largely for its celebrated restaurant, Il Melograno. Most of its rooms lack sea views, so if such an amenity is non-negotiable, contact Bellini Travel, an agency specializing in Italy, to rent Casa Fontana.
