Whatever you do, do not come as you are. Do better. In fact, do your very best. It may require an emergency blowout with George Northwood and a little silky something from the Row, but so be it. Because scoring one of the 75 covers at Arlington, the chattering-class canteen in St. James’s formerly known as Le Caprice, will be the least of your problems.
It may not even technically be open unless you know proprietor Jeremy King or the maître d’hôtel, Jesus Adorno. But once you make it through the heaviest revolving door in town—bodyguards welcome!—coats are whisked away by host Alice Salisbury. (Remember her from the Wolseley?) Now study the mirrors behind the bar, which reveal the contents of the dining room. For those who have properly prepared, heads may swivel. Jarvis Cocker, Minnie Driver, Anya Hindmarch, Nick Jones, Ruthie Rogers: yes, it’s true, they are looking better than ever. In this King-dom, the secret sauce is mid-level lighting.
