“We lost the habit of getting nourished by life and ingesting positive energies.”

A Seat at the Table

At Table, in Paris, the self-taught chef Bruno Verjus forgoes French fine-dining traditions—and cooked butter—to serve up a modern tasting menu

By André Michel

Bruno Verjus has a genuine reverence for his ingredients. At his tiny Paris restaurant, Table, in the 12th Arrondissement, the 64-year-old chef makes memorable and beautiful dishes. His $430 tasting menu starts with “Couleur du Jour,” freshly cut vegetables, followed by dishes such as deep-sea prawns with dollops of a bright-yellow turmeric sauce and pigeon cooked over an open fire. The meal always ends with his legendary chocolate-caper tart, which is topped with caviar, and his olive-jam madeleines dipped in olive oil.

With just 24 seats, it’s one of the most challenging reservations to get in Paris. (Fans include Hedi Slimane, René Redzepi, and Carole Bouquet.) In 2022, Table earned two Michelin stars. Next week, it will be named to the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.