Slovenia had never much tempted me, but in truth, I knew little about this country in the middle of Europe. A few months ago, a friend suggested it as a place for people who love Italy but not its prices or crowds.

The drive from Venice’s Marco Polo Airport to my first stop, the Adriatic resort of Portorož, took only two hours. That was the first of many revelations. There would be many more over seven days full of delicious meals, abundant nature, and just the right amount of luxury. In just one country, I experienced a complete European grand tour, with vineyards, castles, emerald rivers, freshly caught trout and freshly picked persimmons, a sexy coastline, and a shining capital city, Ljubljana. All of it was choreographed by Black Tomato, a high-end tour operator that creates immersive private itineraries.