The British think their country is a mess, a shambles, a dog’s breakfast—politically, economically, perhaps even socially. But it’s in the worst of times that irrepressible London shows itself at its best. Post-Brexit chaos has been the perfect starter for creativity and style, and as old London crumbles, it rises again with the new.

The National Health Service flounders, and the Conservative government that starved it and so many other emblems of a modern democracy self-implodes. At the same time, the gallery scene in Shoreditch is the envy of its rivals. Wet Leg, Arlo Parks, and Little Simz are selling out stadiums. Whether it’s the terrine at Planque, in Hackney, or the venison at Dorian, in Notting Hill, London’s restaurants are more thrilling and varied than ever.