If energy creates energy, then Christelle Kocher has certainly tapped a vital source. Along with running Koché, the French fashion brand that will present its spring 2023 collection later this month in Paris, she’s also the creative director of the Chanel-owned Maison Lemarié, one of Paris’s oldest ateliers specializing in handcrafted flower and feather pieces. It’s a job she’s held since 2010, and one that’s thoroughly indoctrinated her into the rarefied world of haute couture.

But there’s more: the 43-year-old designer has also collaborated with brands as varied as Puma, Pucci, and Nike, and with the soccer clubs A.C. Milan and Paris Saint-Germain (separately). Most recently, she designed two collections for the newly revived legendary shoe brand Charles Jourdan. At certain times her work feels omnipresent, even if her name—never mind her likeness—isn’t always visible.