It’s about to be August on Panarea, and a boatload of teenagers is getting off the ferry from Naples, armed with Airbnb reservations, their parents’ credit cards, and stashed-away bottles of tequila, nabbed from their home liquor cabinets.

Panarea is the smallest and snootiest island in Italy’s Aeolian archipelago. It’s where the husband-and-wife pair Paolo Tilche and Myriam Beltrami opened the first guesthouses, in the 60s, and where the likes of Gianni Agnelli and Francis Bacon were regulars.