On a recent Sunday night, I went with some friends to a bar in Williamsburg, to drink pitchers of kratom. The bar makes big batches of tea by stirring powdered kratom, an herb grown in Southeast Asia, into boiling water. They put it in the fridge and serve it cold, like iced tea.

Plain kratom tea looks like muddy water and tastes like a viscous wheatgrass shot, so the bar offers a choice of mixers: passion-fruit juice, hibiscus tea, lemon juice, oat milk. For $10 you can add a shot of delta-8, which is knock-off THC.