Skip to Content

Eat

Una Pizza Napoletana


Anthony Mangieri opened Una Pizza Napoletana in the East Village in 2004. He closed it in 2009, decamped to San Francisco, then returned to New York in 2018 to reopen Una, once again in the East Village. It was that incarnation where I first tasted his pizza, which remains the best I have eaten in my entire life—and I have spent much of my life eating pizza, in places as far-flung as Naples, Italy, and Midwood, Brooklyn. Una closed in March 2020 (because of that whole coronavirus thing) and has stayed closed ever since, provoking a deep terror within me that it might never reopen. As of this weekend, it has at last. It’s been more than two years since I’ve eaten at Una, so my descriptions of the pies come mostly from memories soaked in old halcyon days, heavy on joy and light on details. But trust me, Mangieri is a master. His pizzas are one size: 12 inches. The pie comes uncut, so you have to slice it yourself. The crust is heavy on bubbles, so much so that it may dominate 50 percent of your slice. But don’t worry, you’d be happy eating Mangieri’s dough plain—it’s perfect. (resy.com) —Gabriel Jandali Appel

Shop

Desert Vintage


Last weekend, Desert Vintage, a Tucson, Arizona, boutique that’s been around since 1974, opened an East Coast outpost in New York City’s Chinatown. The small shop has thick burnt-orange curtains, an antique bathtub full of flowers, and a brown couch that looks ready for a 1930s society woman to faint onto. The owners, Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan, stock it with Yves Saint Laurent silk demi-couture dresses from the 1960s, totally sheer embroidered dresses from the 1920s, and Karl Lagerfeld–era Chloé blouses. They sell selected pieces online, but the actual store is worth the subway ride. (desertvintage.com) —Jensen Davis

Read

Jens Risom: A Seat at the Table


Even if you don’t recognize Jens Risom’s name, you will likely recognize his furniture. Companies such as Ikea and Wayfair are still churning out knockoffs of his 1942 Model 666 chair—an armless dinner-table chair with a simple wood frame and canvas webbing for the back and seat. A new coffee-table book from Phaidon documents the Danish furniture designer’s start in 1937, when he was just 21, and his rise; by the end of the 1940s, his chairs, desks, and tables furnished the likes of the Seagram Building and Hugh Hefner’s Playboy offices. The book includes his early sketches, his 1953 advertisements shot by Richard Avedon, and photos of his best-known patrons—such as President Lyndon B. Johnson and Hefner’s Bunnies—sitting on his designs. ($125, phaidon.com) —Jensen Davis

Watch

Somebody Somewhere


With their new HBO series, Somebody Somewhere, the Duplass brothers have paved the way for a new genre: coming-of-middle-age. Cabaret performer and comedian Bridget Everett plays Sam, a standardized-test-and-essay scorer who, at 40, still lives with her parents in her hometown, Manhattan—Kansas, that is. Always a misfit, Sam tries to shake up her life following the death of her sister. What ensues is a moving and hilarious reflection on loss and belonging, with Sam getting involved in a whole host of juvenile high jinks. The show mixes wholesomeness and humor with drama. (hbo.com) —Jacob Robbins

Wear

Clements Ribeiro


Fashion fiends will surely remember when Clements Ribeiro was “a thing.” The company’s peak was in the early 90s, not long after Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro, the husband-and-wife team behind it, graduated from Central Saint Martins and hit the London fashion scene with looks that consisted of wild mishmashes of prints, textures, and references. What a time! They went on to revive the French fashion company Cacharel, then took a seven-year hiatus. Now, Ribeiro has relaunched Clements Ribeiro with this smashing new cashmere collection, produced in collaboration with Barrie Knitwear, in Scotland. The saturated colors and bold patterns of their debut are still around, and we are especially gratified to see this cricket-ready V-neck, complete with an off-kilter stripe detail at the collar. (The very notion of a cricket sweater reminds us, in a very good way, of a marvelous scene from PBS’s All Creatures Great and Small, a drama set in 1930s England. This means it’s scientifically impossible to resist.) There are many tempting styles in the collection, so don’t fall in love too fast. ($1,050; net-a-porter.com) —Ashley Baker

Wear

Rose & Co.


In the Air Mail–verse, taking a trip to London or Paris to be fitted for a new pair of spectacles by an excellent optician is not unheard-of behavior. For those who pay close attention to new purveyors of eyewear, good news has arrived in the form of Rose & Co., which has come out with a new collection of six unisex frames that can be filled with sun or prescription lenses. It’s the brainchild of David Rose, an industry veteran who abstains from the fussy new trends and, instead, favors perfecting, and improving upon, classic shapes. Sourcing top-notch metals and acetates from all over the globe, Rose creates some seriously high-quality glasses that combine fashion and function. Our current favorites: the A3 in muted red, which is made from a custom-pattern Japanese acetate. Each pair is sequentially numbered—don’t worry, it’s very subtle—so if you get in early, you’ll be able to prove it. In this case, it feels very good to be first. ($295, rose-co.us) —Ashley Baker

Issue No. 138
March 5, 2022
Loading issue contents …
Issue No. 138
March 5, 2022