It’s sunset and I’m on a boat. “Fly Me to the Moon” is playing on some speakers. My hair is full of salt and sea air; in my hand is a glass of assyrtiko, Santorini’s traditional white wine. Do an online image search for “romance” and something like this will crop up. Except in the foreground there’ll be a couple. I’m here on my own.

When I told people I was going away alone, reactions were mixed. “That’s brave,” some said. “Good for you,” others condescended. Then I told them where I was going — and patronization turned to pity. Look, I get it. When you’ve never done it before, traveling solo to a honeymoon haven might seem a little masochistic. But for me that was part of the challenge.