A few words on the plight of the restaurateur—surely one of the most valiant entrepreneurial endeavors in the vast spectrum of human enterprise.

Running a restaurant—whether it’s a tiny noodle shop in a suburb of Shanghai or a big London brasserie, such as the Wolseley—requires more hats than a MAGA rally. You must be equal parts set decorator, lighting expert, financial manager, stage director, time-and-motion wiz, H.R. head, psychiatrist, M.C., traffic cop, table-scape artist, and motivational speaker. On top of that, you need to know a whole lot about food and alcohol. And people.