“My goal right now is to solve how to stop using virgin materials,” declares designer Gabriela Hearst, taking a pause from finishing her first collection for Chloé to discuss her top priorities. There is no talk of silhouette or color palette or aesthetics in general—she is instead determined to remake this Richemont brand into the most sustainable luxury house around, reducing carbon emissions in every aspect of her collections, from production to design to the fashion show, with an eye toward carbon neutrality. As if spoiling for a fight, Hearst expresses a need for instant action. “We need to start to move to a more circular economy as soon as possible,” she says.

Welcome to the new Chloé. “It’s still about feminine values but also about the environment,” assures Riccardo Bellini, the brand’s C.E.O. “Chloé itself was in a bit of an identity crisis. My idea was to go deep into understanding the meaning of the brand and its very soul.”