“Open” is a word we associate with restaurants. “What year did you open the River Café?” “Are you open for breakfast?” “Open for New Year’s Eve?” “I’m stuck in traffic—if we arrive late, will the kitchen still be open?”

When Rose [Gray] and I began the River Café, we were unique in that we were only permitted to be “open” for lunch during the week, and only to the people who worked in the buildings around us. Six months later, we were open to the public. Another six months later, we were “open” in the evenings. A year later, we were open on the weekends, and only two months ago, we were given permission to open Sunday nights.

Start your free trial to read the full story

Subscribe to Air Mail to access every article
and search our entire Arts Intel Report.

Already a subscriber? Sign in here.