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February 15 2020
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Francis Mallmann, master of open-fire cooking, in Pueblo Garzón.

Chances are you’re already on intimate terms with José Ignacio, the sprawling fishermen’s village that has recently been appropriated by stylish types from Buenos Aires to Brooklyn. But further inland, Pueblo Garzón, the tiny colonial village that’s home to renowned chef Francis Mallmann (who starred in an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table series), remains a well-kept secret.

Garzón sits at the end of the road Ruta 9, a short drive from the coast, in the thick of the Uruguayan countryside. Small, colorful buildings in colonial style are scattered around a palm-tree-lined square. Garzón was abandoned in 1989, when it was cut off from the country’s national rail service. Mallmann purchased much of the town a few years back, and his personal style is clearly reflected in its aesthetic—gaucho, but make it fashion.

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