One early morning in January, Tomo Koizumi was asleep in Tokyo when he received a text at three a.m.: “Literally, the best thing I’ve seen in years.” The sender was the super-stylist and Love magazine editor in chief Katie Grand, who has accrued the power to anoint designers or banish them to mid-market irrelevancy. She was referring to Koizumi’s dresses—outrageously ruffled confections in raspberry, Creamsicle, peppermint, pistachio—which she had discovered on Instagram after noticing a post about his work from her friend, the designer Giles Deacon.
Grand sensed an opportunity to create a bona-fide fashion moment, and she set to work producing a show for Koizumi during New York Fashion Week in February. She asked her longtime friend and creative collaborator, the designer Marc Jacobs, to borrow his Madison Avenue store for the venue, and enlisted Pat McGrath and Guido Palau to mastermind the makeup and hair, respectively, for the show. Anita Bitton, a casting agent and another Grand intimate, cast a lineup of top models, from Bella Hadid and Karen Elson to Joan Smalls.