Party guests are predictably inconsistent about hors d’oeuvres. They will wolf down pigs in a blanket by the handful, but huffily wave away feta on endive or a mushroom mini-quiche as too fattening. After years of torturing myself—and friends—with a labored, gelatin-based salmon mousse that never tasted as good as Korean-deli tuna salad, I learned my lesson. People are lazy and go for, if not pigs in a blanket, something that’s easy to eat in one bite and looks low-fat but is not too fussy. Also, they crave salt.

Enter the smoked-salmon canapé, which favors a Weight Watchers–ish approach and substitutes yogurt for mayonnaise or cream cheese, and takes a minute to make in a food processor. I tell friends that it is saumon à la voyeur de poids, and they never turn it down.