When Anne McNally—chronic hostess, Air Mail Editor at Large, and general bon vivant—is sourcing the raw materials for her famous roast chicken, she does not mess around. To procure the bird, she heads straight to Dellapietras Brooklyn, a butcher on Atlantic Avenue that specializes in dry-aged meats and free-range, locally raised poultry. (Not too local, we hope.) And while McNally occasionally serves the dish in her Brooklyn Heights apartment, it’s on very heavy rotation at her weekend home, in Litchfield County, Connecticut. “I serve it with mashed potatoes in winter, and with basmati rice, cilantro, and green peas in the summer,” she says. But, really, any old side will do.