No Paris restaurant in my recent experience matches Guy Savoy, which was downgraded from three stars to two stars in 2023 by the Michelin guide. I considered this an act of impertinence and foolishness that convinced me of what I have long suspected, that Michelin has lost its mind, to say nothing of its standards. Guy Savoy, when I first dined there years ago, was situated in a miniscule dining facility previously occupied by Le Bernardin before that restaurant relocated to America. It has since moved to lavish quarters overlooking the Seine, and the cuisine remains masterful, thanks to Savoy’s thoughtful interpretations and occasional re-imagining of French food. Should you obtain a reservation, do not fail to order the chef’s artichoke soup topped with slices of parmigiano reggiano and black truffle, possibly the world’s greatest first course. —Alan Richman

A former sportswriter for the Philadelphia Evening Bulletin, Alan Richman has won 16 James Beard Foundation Awards for his journalism on food and wine, and a National Magazine Award for feature writing