At the turn of the 20th century, King Alfonso XIII honeymooned at the Ritz in London and Paris and returned to Spain peeved that Madrid didn’t have its own. So, he financed hotelier César Ritz’s project with French architect Charles Mewes and Spanish architect Luis de Landecho. Now owned by Mandarin Oriental, though still called “The Ritz,” the hotel is freshly open after a three-year, $115 million renovation. It’s Belle Époque character and grand, gold accents were preserved, but the hotel now feels bright, airy, and dangerously comfortable. Don’t skip dinner at chef Quique Dacosta’s Deesa restaurant, in the aplty named Alfonso XIII salon overlooking the garden. —Clara Molot